Freetown, the undiscovered jewel of West Africa

Text and pictures: Carlos Velázquez

Cotton Tree

It is the year 1787 and we sail on a ship full of freed Sierra Leonean slaves. Imagine being part of that crew. You were forcibly taken from home and to the Americas to endure the most inhumane conditions. Most of the people you knew did not survive. But you did. You are now a free man who is returning home – West Africa. As the ship approaches the land, your heart begins to race. The breathtaking view of green rocky mountains catches your eye. You look further and watch the town, an unending coastline with a few mud houses scattered here and there. At this point the ship is about to moor and you can now see the tree – right where you left it. It stands tall, with welcoming open branches and fresh leaves. You can finally see the immense Cotton Tree. You are home.

The Cotton Tree is the heart of Freetown. There are historical accounts that date the tree back to 1759, but everyone is convinced that it must be older than that – some say immortal. The legend tells that in 1787 a group freed from enslavement in Nova Scotia sat around the cotton tree to give thanks and share a meal. Under the shade of the tree they founded what we now know as Freetown, the land where the once-enslaved were able to resettle as free men.

The Cotton Tree is the silent witness of Sierra Leone’s history. It has seen it all: the arrival of the Portuguese explorers, the slave trade, the coming of the British Empire, the colonial days, the victory of democracy, the grip of dictatorships, the uproar of rebels fighting the civil war, the happy parades of carnival and the peaceful modern days.

As I approach to take a good look at it, a hand taps my shoulder. I turned around to be greeted by a smiley man. His name is Ibrahim Kama, the Cotton Tree care taker. He has saved the tree from burning on two occasions. “Some people with bad intentions came to set fire to the tree, the trunk was badly damaged but I was quick to raise the alarm and the fire brigades came to help. I feel so proud to be the care taker of the Cotton Tree. It is our national symbol, it is even drawn on our notes and all. You and I will die, but this tree will continue to watch the history of the Freetown for many more years,” Kama explains.

Cotton Tree

Ibrahim Kama, the caretaker

Ibrahim Kama

National History Museum

Our next stop is the National History Museum, merely 20 steps away from the Cotton Tree. Mr. James Bawah, the museum guide, welcomes me with a strong handshake. As he begins to talk, I realised that I am in for a real treat. James is a walking encyclopedia and shares with me all the details of each of the incredible pieces of art and history that are kept inside this former railway station.

Amongst all the galleries, there is one that takes my breath away. I walk around the room and see massive, tall sculptures – half man, half animal, half devil masquerades – scattered across the space. There is one in particular with a goat’s head and huge, penetrating black eyes that gives me the shivers. “These sculptures are teachers and a part of the most powerful form of traditional schooling in Sierra Leone,” Bawah says. “Each of these characters have a role to play to teach people (especially the youth) about politics, war, farming or how to be a good wife or husband. They are the master figures of our traditional school systems that we refer to as the secret societies.”

“Secrets societies are ancient and were established well before the Europeans showed up,” he continues. “The colonizers tried to ban them but they did not succeed. Up until today we have the Poro Society, the Bundu Society and the Hunting Society and they cut across Sierra Leone and its tribes.” The sculptures also play a celebratory role. “On April 27th, Independence Day, communities around the country used to enter into a dancing and fancy dress competition to see who was able to create the most astonishing dancing devil. It was such a fun day to be on the streets, and I feel sad to see this tradition slowly dying.”

James explains each part of the museum to me with grace, witty and an incredible amount of detail. He takes me on a fantastic journey from pre-colonial West Africa, to the present political figures stopping by the architects of the Independence, the fathers of the Constitution, Madame Yoko (the only female chief in Sierra Leone history), the rebellions of Chief Bai Bureh against the colonial tax systems and the ghosts of those child soldiers who fought a cruel civil war. I leave the museum with my heart full of stories and very gleeful knowing that, because of people like James, the history and memory of Sierra Leone are in safe hands.

PZ Market

From the museum, and still in the heart of the city, we make our way to Wilberforce Street and get lost inside the maze of PZ – Freetown’s biggest street market. Seriously, if what you are looking to buy is not at PZ, then forget about it, you will not find it anywhere else. PZ gets its name after two European business men, George Paterson (Scottish) and George Zochonis (Greek). The two friends used to work together in Freetown, where they decided to set up a trading post at Wilberforce Street called Paterson Zochonis (PZ).

I have come to buy a lappa shirt - a traditional Africana print shirt that most Sierra Leonean wear on lappa day – which is Friday. I approach one of the hundreds of stalls selling them. The shop keeper is Aminata Fefegula and she is happy to advise me on which one to get: “Buy the cotton material, because we are in dry season and it will keep you fresh.” I ask Aminata how much it costs and she says 200,000 SLL ($18). I asked her if that is her last price to which she replies: “Last is 170,000 SLL” ($15). I buy it. Sierra Leoneans are not so much into the whole bargaining thing. In my experience, they will likelier tell you, “No, I will not sell it to you at that price” than to spend hours bargaining with you. I (a big fan of visible and fixed price tags) love this approach! PZ has it all, from traditional African produces to imported books, cheap Chinese plastic wonders, iPhones or your next car. If you enjoy the buzz and vibrancy of street markets – don’t miss out on PZ!

Downtown

From PZ I walked to Lightfoot Boston Street and pass by some other historical land marks like Big Market, whose outer walls are covered with paintings of national heroes such as Sengbeh Pieh. On his trip across the Atlantic, this young slave managed to free himself and his fellow captives, killed the captain and seized control of the ship. Sengbeh Pieh also became the first slave to win a court case against the Spaniards slave traders and earned his freedom to return to Sierra Leone.

I stroll by some British-style churches, remains of the colonial days. The statue of Thomas Peters stands tall in front of St. George’s Cathedral. Do you remember the ship arriving in Freetown at the beginning of our story? Thomas Peters was part of that crew and one of the founding fathers of Freetown.

What I love about this part of Freetown is the mixture of feelings of the neighborhood. On the left you can see the sea and the Quays, with the big cranes and containers – as if we were in the times of the industrial revolution. On the right, some old buildings, mostly churches and former colonial palaces like the one on George Street, currently the headquarters of the Ministry of Finance. And next to the old buildings are some modern skyscrapers, like the jaw-dropping City Council Hall building. I enter the City Council Hall’s elevator and press the button to the 15th floor. Are you ready to be surprised?

The View

In my opinion, this is one of the best kept secrets of Freetown. This rooftop lounge bar and restaurant offers a 360-degree view of the city, from the mountains to the sea. Imagine watching the sunset from up here whilst sipping a margarita. Pure bliss. The owner of The View is a well-dressed, smiley lady named Famata Davis. She tells us,“The View caters for every taste, from cocktails, high-quality spirits, to yummy bites like the traditional cassava leaves and rice – a Sierra Leonean delicacy and a must-have for any visitor.”

After all the driving and walking, I am so ready for dinner. I decide on the signature dish, The View Special, a mixture of fresh sea food – lobster, calamari and shrimps. I enjoy the food with a glass of crisp white wine. As I eat, I look around to observe the clientele of the place. I see executives in their suits, a large group of young white expats having beers, and some beautiful couples sharing intimate conversations. It is a Friday, so I decide to change my outfit and wear the lappa shirt that I bought at PZ earlier. Almost everyone is wearing Africana clothes, including the members of a live jazz band that has started to play. I end my dinner with a shisha and listen to the music, whilst the buzz of Freetown continues fifteen floors under my feet.

Aberdeen

After dinner it is time to shake our bodies and, let me tell you, there is no crazier city to party in than Freetown! We leave the city center and drive for 10 minutes into the Aberdeen peninsula. This blessed stretch of land that grows into the Atlantic Ocean is surrounded by beaches and is only linked to the main land at its Eastern point – Lumley. The seafront is the place where the hottest clubs are. Aberdeen is a raw African Vegas. Imagine four kilometers of coastline full of bars, restaurants, hotels and casinos. So much to explore!

I visit Ocean, a beach bar with great music and a vibrant crowd. The DJ hits us with the newest afro beats and soon everyone is dancing in the sand. After Ocean, I take a short walk along the sea front. The temperature is warm and the street food markets are busy making money. Informal traders bring their ‘cool boxes’ to the seafront. They are filled with ice blocks and under the ice all sorts of cold drinks are buried. A nice treat on a hot night. I stop by them and buy Bitter Kola, a local drink made of kola nut – known to have multiple health benefits and a caffeine kick! We are now ready to enter the club. Sunny Side is the definition of madness. It is full to the ceiling, everyone so close that is impossible to dance alone. The DJ hits the crowds with some old school R&B and the club melts. We dance and dance till late hours. Welcome to Freetown!

River Number 2 Beach

Day time is for the beach. After a long night, we are ready for a cleansing swim in crystal clear water. I drive southeast for 20 minutes on Peninsula Road. Our destination is River Number 2 beach - one of the most delightful beaches I have ever been to in my entire life. The sand is white and the beach is divided into two parts by the river mouth. The choice is yours. Do you want to swim in the fresh water of the river or the warm and salty Atlantic Ocean?

If you don’t swim, worry not! River Number 2 is also equipped with comfortable chairs, tables and umbrellas for those who like to chill, eat and drink. I eat a fresh lobster for 140,000 SLL ($12) – crazy cheap, right?

The beach is also a hot spot for surfing. A group of Sierra Leonean surfers run the Ahma Surf Club, where they offer lessons for students of all levels.

Number 2 beach is THAT BEACH! You will see hundreds of Sierra Leoneans carrying their food, drinks and music speakers to celebrate any kind of occasion - especially on the weekends. After the sun goes down, River Number 2 transforms. DJs play local hits only and a huge crowd of people dance around several bonfires till late at night. Sierra Leoneans really know how to have fun!

Freetown is the undiscovered jewel of West Africa. I came 4 years ago and never left – there are too many little paradisiac corners that will keep you going. Ready for tourism and yet not touristy, Sierra Leone will definitely surprise you. Are you ready for a treat?